Sunday, 20 October 2013

Paris in the Autumn


It's Autumn, and Paris is shaking the leaves from its trees as the air turns crisper and light grows golden. What better than to spend an afternoon wandering around the rather beautiful Jardin du Luxembourg, a stone's throw away from my university at The Sorbonne-Cluny? Not much can beat London's Greenwich Parkthe famous Royal gardens belonging to the old "Queen's house", and my old stomping ground for snowball fights, sledging, lazing in the sun and climbing trees. The Jardin du Luxembourg does however come pretty close with its boating pond and petanque terrains -also having been built and maintained by various monarchs (originally landscaped by Marie de Medicis in 1611) as they came to power.

 
The garden is typical of France's more structured attitude to leisure - you can't flop down on the grass with a beer or kick a football around here. But there are beautiful tree-lined promenades stretching to each corner, an Orangerie filled with tropical leaves, old men earnestly hunched around chequers boards and - donkey rides! Tea huts surround the children's play-area (I desperately wanted to have a go on the zip-wire!) and best of all is the central fountain where you can rent model sail-boats to set off on their up-teenth "maiden voyage". Greenwich Park might have sledging hills and a beautiful panorama, but the Jardin du Luxembourg makes you feel like you've been flung back into the Belle Epoque, where moustachioed gentlemen in long overcoats and stripy scarfs proffer their arms to their delighted female companions. It's known for its many statues - keen eyes will have noticed the model for New York's famous Statue of Liberty standing incongruously amongst the trees.


Luxembourg Gardens at Twilight by John Singer Sargent, 1879

The Jardins also house the Senat, part of French parliament where laws are voted on and passed, or so I'm told. You can apparently book in advance to go inside and have a look!



 Just a stone's throw away is the Pantheon, a grand old building which in its interesting history has gone back and forth between being a Catholic place of worship and a secular monument to man. It is now a monumental mausoleum, a sort of grand communal tomb to rival that of Napoleon's. The dedication reads: "Aux grands hommes: La Patrie reconnissante" (To the Great Men: The Grateful Homeland) - without forgetting some pretty special women too (Marie and Pierre Curie are buried here, and my friend and I also saw the tombs of Jean Jaures, Victor Hugo, Jean Moulin, Abbe Gregoire and Voltaire.


  


Dedication to Antoine St. Exupery, author of 'Le Petit Prince'. 




The Pantheon is free to European students from 18-26 years of age, and the Jardins are also free of charge. To anyone looking for a day out without spending a dime - I highly recommend heading over to the 6th arrondissement for culture, history, (and after all of that somber stuffiness) - a big breath of fresh autumnal air. 




À Bientôt !
x

Thursday, 17 October 2013

Pâtisserie, Protests, Patriotism


Today was my first "controle", an exam "sur table" (under exam conditions) to check our understanding of the works we're studying in class. After 45minutes of fairly stressful scribbling, I hopped gladly onto the metro to meet a friend and appeared, blinking back fatigue, at Victor Hugo metro. The 16e arrondissement is famous for being even more affluent than my turf in the 7e. 



After wandering round and round the beautiful central "Place Victor Hugo" and playing guess-the-price in English export Laura Ashley, we got a drink in a cute pâtisserie cum cafe. 

   

Coffee drunk and catching up caught, we wandered along to Trocadero & found another friend, along with a protest to end discrimination towards those living in poverty. 


 





Pâtisserie, protests and a very Parisian landmark, what could be more French?!


Probably only the interior of the Cadet metro station.
Talk about patriotic.


À Bientôt !
x


The Sorbonne: For Dummies



or The Things I'd Liked to have Known


When I signed up for university as my Year Abroad option, I wasn't going on much. I vaguely had the idea of doing a job for a year, but knew that I definitely didn't want to do British Council, for fears that I would be speaking English all day and wouldn't have much choice of where I ended up. My sister had been at uni in France and Spain on her Year Abroad and it seemed to allow more freedom, a chance to meet students, yet within a structure so you knew exactly what to do on each day.

But as for The Sorbonne (Paris IV) - I guess I'd heard of it as part of the best known university in France, and Paris was a grand, alluring, sparkling vision with its plentiful offering of churches, shops, museums, cafes and boulangeries. As for the inner workings of this 'glorious' institution, I had no idea. I felt like waving the white flag (in true French style, some might say), after hearing that seminars were typically 3 hours long. So for anyone thinking of doing their year abroad here, here are the things I wish I'd known:

The Sorbonne is split into different institutions which act as their own separate universities. So far, I've come across Paris I, Paris III (La Sorbonne-Nouvelle), Paris IV (Paris-Sorbonne), and Paris VI. I can't tell you what happened to Paris II and Paris V! I'm here to tell you about Paris IV, which is the faculty for Lettres et Civilisations, or Languages, History, Literature, Media etc. We don't seem to have any engagement with the other members of the Sorbonne family, unlike in universities back in the UK where science students and literature students coexist (almost) peacefully.


In English: Lectures
French slang: CMs


In my experience, there are 2 lectures for each module (of around 8-10 ECTs). Some run together, so you sit for two hours, and some are on separate days and separate times. These are pretty similar to what I'd find at home in Durham, except that in Durham the modules are generally year long rather than semester long as at Paris-IV. There is more focus on the author's biographies which is quite interesting, and the only qualm is that the teaching is quite prescriptive...I'll have to wait and see how much room there is for my own opinions!



In English: SEMINARS
French slang: TDs

 Seminars at Paris-IV are generally 3 hours long. Yes, you heard me. For someone who came from an average of 1 or 2 hours a day contact time at Durham University which amounted to about 8 hours a week, my 15 hour week was a shock. Science students with 25 hours a week will laugh, but for a literature student like me it is a big shock. Your concentration span will be flexed, strained, trained, and eventually come out tops (or so I hope). It is more of a classroom setting, with anything from 8-30 students in a room, instead of the smaller discussion groups you might be used to at home. It is perfectly possible to sit at the back in silence (so tempting), but it won't help your French. Teachers are no-nonsense, however, and expect maximum courtesy from students. One told us frankly, "I have not given you my email address, because I don't want you to contact me". I would happily send all my questions over email to tutors back home, but unlike in the UK (and Brazil, so I am told) where I was bought a drink in the local pub in a freebie revision session, seminar leaders are in no way your friends. Students at Paris-IV are free to choose from the sessions made available to them.


The French just call them 'cours'

As an Erasmus student, I was given a choice of taking any class I wanted, from Year 1, 2 or 3. Classes run for a semester, so classes with an odd-numbered Module Code: e.g. L1, L3, L5 run in the first semester and classes in L2, L4 and L6 run in the second semester. Sound confusing? L1 and L2 classes are first year classes, L3 and L4 are second year classes, L5 and L6 are third year classes. There are grammar classes, literature classes and infocom (media classes), amongst other language classes such as Spanish, Russian and English. French students seem to follow a traditional programme of grammar, history of the French language, a foreign language and culture classes. I do a wild-card selection of 'Litterature des 19e et 20e siecles', 'Approche des Genres Litteraires' and 'Litterature Europeene' (War Poetry). They seem to be very traditional choices: you aren't gonna find 'Literatures of Terrorism' or 'Harry Potter and the Age of Illusion' like back in good ol' Durham University.




MALESHERBES: (nearest Metro, Malesherbes)
N.B. pronounced males - herbes, not male-sherbes
The site for Level 1 and Level 2 classes. Malesherbes is a nice university site, with an onsite cafeteria, library and outer courtyard. 

(nearest Metro: Odeon, Sorbonne-Cluny, RER: St. Michael's-Notre Dame )
Level 3 and Masters classes. Tourists flock to this site with its impressive courtyard, beautiful lecture theatres and library. The May '68 Protests happened here - it's the one everyone thinks of when they hear the name. It hides a slightly scruffy interior though, and all the corridors look the same. You pay the price for a great lookin' edifice, I guess.


Can't say much about Clignancourt, not having been there, but I've heard horror stories. History students have classes there, and it seems to be in a rather seedy part of town. Not a reason to be put off uni, but you have been warned!

Be-IV: student group which organises events
 CROUS: university cafeteria
controle continu: tests throughout the year which can count towards your final grade
ENT: online learning environment (access to emails)
la Fac: uni(versity) 
Moodle: online learning environment (lectures uploaded here)
Les Sorbonnales: 'Fete de Rentree' or Freshers' Party
sur table: when an test is done at uni under exam conditions
 Tutorat: extra-curricular classes to improve your language skills
La Rentree: the return to university come September
UFR: Unite de Formation et de Recherche: A Faculty

Questions welcome below - and good luck if you're thinking of coming. I'm really enjoying my time here so far!

À Bientôt !
x

Tuesday, 15 October 2013

Parinspiration

I cannot WAIT until my Dad and Mum come to see me in the next few weeks - Dad, after a work trip which will happily land him in Paris, & Mum coming to stay in half-term. Dad's just coming for the night so I've booked a table at Hugo, my new favourite restaurant. Mum's stay requires some more planning...so here are some more pictures I've dug out of the Pinterest archives, getting me inspired about what to do & see during her little trip to this oh-so-cool city of Paris! Enjoy :)

Photo credit: http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/originals/d2/8c/d6/d28cd66368bf2bd764e32394180ca460.jpg
Photo credit: http://www.79ideas.org/2013/10/beautiful-paris-photography.html#.Ul02oaXEPzI

Photo credit: http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/3e/0f/2e/3e0f2ea0c519afe6186b06e349fef882.jpg

Photo credit: http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/originals/94/c3/a1/94c3a196ce398c42209017bee0cfa9d1.jpg

Photo credit: http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/originals/42/ae/28/42ae286b0b785e2f7cfaf790100363fc.jpg

Photo credit: http://arquitetura-pessoal.tumblr.com/post/63872911052/sourire-alavie-paris



Photo credit: http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/originals/20/54/68/205468fc14262db02cd49ccd02732e13.jpg

 Sadly, the weather is more likely to resemble this:

Photo credit: http://www.flickr.com/photos/_lunie/5179536218/

Photo credit: http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/db/22/ec/db22ecdfad188a1a5e0fb1bbc108d87e.jpg

Let's hope it's still as beautiful! 
À Bientôt ! 
x


Monday, 14 October 2013

A Tale of Two Cities



Psst! A little birdie told me that London was recently voted the best city to live in the world...and Durham University was voted best university for student 'Quality of Life'. So I'm pretty spoilt there then, although goodness knows how people come up with these statistics! 



Though London won the heavy-weight prize, poor Paris didn't get all dolled up for nothing, and won the accolade of 'Best City to Visit' with her beautiful sights, fashionable reputation and great food. I fully agree- it's a lot less sprawling than London with cheaper public transport, a better 'Velib' system than Boris' well-meaning bikes and I can vouch that it is perfectly possible to walk for 30 minutes and get to quite a few meaningful places.




Nonetheless, it was interesting to see my two cities pitched against each other in Time Out's info-graphic, even if you have to take into account that Paris is just much smaller! When I have time, I might draw up a little comparison of my own. Nothing like a bit of healthy competition & debate!



If you didn't the full survey floating around the internet, then here it is!
All credit to: 
http://now-here-this.timeout.com/2013/08/13/london-vs-paris-infographic-the-urban-head-to-head/

I love London, but as I feel more at home here I have to say that Paris is nipping at my hometown's heels. As far as I'm concerned, it's all still to play for in this tale of two cities.

À Bientôt !
x


Sunday, 13 October 2013

Les Feux d'Artifice et Un Fabuleux Destin


On Saturday evening, some friend and I took ourselves along to Blanche metro station, past the neon lights of the Moulin Rouge and to the 'Cafe des Deux Moulins', made famous by the French classic 'Le Fableux Destin d'Amelie Poulain', or more commonly 'Amelie' in England. 

 
The two famous windmills for which the café is named.

The bar is named for the 'two windmills' located to its left and right - Le Moulin Rouge and Le Moulin de la Galette. It was happy hour until 10 o'clock so cocktails were €6.00 instead of €10.00 (outrageous, but cheap for Paris!)




I sipped on a Cosmopolitan and admired the kitsch Amelie themed decor. The bar had a nice atmosphere and was quite buzzy, plus, the waiters were smiley and efficient and didn't mind me playing tourist with the camera too much. 



Screen shot of Amelie in her café: Photo Credits to http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/amelie/quiz/show/35680/employees-customers-cafe-where-amelie-works-what-name-occupation-not-match

Next, we climbed to the top of Montmartre for the 'Fete des Vendanges' (Celebration of the Vineyards), where stallholders offered wine tasting, saucisson and the smell of freshly baked crepes filled the air. We got there just in time to see the fireworks end -they were spectacular. It was super busy, so we had to link arms and force our way through the crowds, before breaking free into the courtyard beside Sacre-Coeur where a Scottish ceilidh troupe played bagpipe music. It felt like New Year's Eve!



I'll have to make a return visit to Montmartre when there's more room to breathe - I want to explore a little more this area where bohemian music halls, cabarets and artists' workshops flourished. 'Moulin Rouge', directed by Baz Lurhmann, 'Amelie' starring Audrey Tautou and 'La Vie en Rose', a biopic of the life of Edith Piaf were all set here so there's a lot of trivia and history to soak up - not to mention the painters (Van Gogh, Monet, Renoir, Pisarro, The Nabis) who drew inspiration from the hallowed hill. 




The area is probably a little dilapidated now, as the Charles Aznavour song suggests, and Pigalle at night isn't very lovely: Je ne reconnais plus/Ni les murs, ni les rues/Qui ont vu ma jeunesse/En haut d'un escalier/Je cherche l'atelier/Dont plus rien ne subsiste/Dans son nouveau décor/Montmartre semble triste/Et les lilas sont morts.

However, I'm willing to give it a chance if someone can suggest some nice hang-outs!
After a lovely weekend, it's back to Alfred de Vigny, Guillaume Apollinaire and Hugo for me!

À Bientôt !
x